NYT: Baking Bread (and More) in Brooklyn

Emily Berl for The New York Times

From NYT Diner’s Journal:

Zachary Golper, who baked bread and pastries for Le Bec-Fin in Philadelphia, and Kate Wheatcroft, his wife, have had New York in their sights for some time. The result is the bakery Bien Cuit, in Boerum Hill, Brooklyn.

“We felt there was a more high-quality food in New York,” Ms. Wheatcroft said. “The best people are here.” They started looking for space in Manhattan but soon had Brooklyn on the radar. “There are a lot of great things going on food-wise in this area but not much in the way of baking, especially bread baking,” she said.

Having found what they considered an ideal space with a nice brick wall, they installed a marble counter and an open kitchen. Mr. Golper, who was born in Portland, Ore., and began his baking career in the Pacific Northwest, can be seen there baking handsome, crusty loaves, well-burnished or bien cuit, as they say in France.

The breads, often sourdough, come big and small, and many have raisins, garlic and nuts. The ovens are also turning out elegant sweet and savory tarts, breakfast pastries and croissants, flatbreads and cookies. Sandwiches are sold, too.

Bien Cuit, 120 Smith Street (Dean Street) Boerum Hill, Brooklyn, (718) 852-0200. Breads are $8 to $13, breakfast pastries are $3.75 to $4.50, and tarts, $4.50 to $7.

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